The Story of Frenchman's Island on Lake Oneida and the Family Who Settled on it in 1791.
White Creek, NY
December 21 - 28,
2019
Quite a number of
years ago now, I had read Alexis De Toqueville’s account of his
1831 visit to Lake Oneida in Central New York and became interested
in his quest to find a mysterious Frenchman and his wife who had
settled on an island in the lake long before he trekked there. He had
read a book in France called “Voyage au lac Oneida”. In Alexis’
own words:
“The author related that a
young Frenchman
and his wife, driven from their country by the storms of our first
revolution, sought an asylum in one of the islands on the lake.
There, separated from the whole world, far from the tempests of
Europe, and cast off by the society in which they were born, they
lived for each other, and found mutual consolation in their
misfortune.
This book had
left a deep and lasting impression on my mind. Whether its effect on
me were due to the
talent of the
author, to the real charm of the incidents, or to my youth, I cannot
say ; but the remembrance of the French couple on the Lake Oneida was
never effaced from my memory.”
The fact that I had
driven by Lake Oneida numerous times when I was at college at SUNY
Oswego and seen the islands in the distance only added to my
interest.
(Alexis seemingly
never had any idea of their names, evidently the book he read [which
isn’t available any more and was in French] did not name them). It
is supposed, however, that it was a French translation of Sophie von
La Roche’s German book made by Joachim Campe, who stripped a lot of
things out of Sophie’s book and presented it as his own work.
Supposedly one of those things was any reference to the French
Revolution, but then why does De Toqueville write: “ driven from
their country by the storms of our first revolution,”? I
suspect he had a different pirated translation of Sophie’s book.
Copyright in France at the time was very limited – like
nonexistent.
I was never able at
the time to find out any more, but for some reason I started
researching it again this morning and ended up spending (wasting?)
much of the day on it! The task was made easier by being able to use
the internet (non-existent in the late 1960’s) to search for
sources, and harder by the myriad spellings and mis-spellings of
names. There are many variants used by different people: Des Wattine,
De Wattine, Von Wattine, Desvattines - the most common one in the
Oneida Lake area, etc. Wattine could be spelled beginning with a W or
V, have one or two t’s in it, an s on the end or not. There were a
few almost unrecognizable spelling variants: Divity or Devitzy.
Introduction:
In the 1790’s
there was a German woman author named Sophie von La Roche. [ “La
Roche was a prolific author, publishing novels, essays, and
travelogues. Like Engel, she wrote to generate income when she lost
her pension after the French occupation of the Rhineland in 1794. In
1798 she published her three volume Erscheinungen am See Oneida”i
(Apparitions at Lake Oneida)
“which is based on the true story of the Wattines family from
French Flanders, yet also fictionalizes it”.]
Her
book was a “Robinsonade”, following the pattern of Daniel
Defoe’s 1719
and still popular
book “Robinson
Crusoe”. To make it fit the pattern and also
the French Revolution, she fictionalized
much. The Wattines family did not really flee the French Revolution,
they came over in 1786 due to financial considerations. They also did
not immediately move to the island by choice, but because of the
failure of the husband’s
real estate and business ventures. They were also not cut off from
everyone, being on the main water route west. By 1793
they were already becoming quite
famous and by 1795 had
had a lot of visitors. Sophie’s son Fritz and wife Elsy
collected information and also actually
visited the Wattines once after
they had moved to New Rotterdam, (later
called Constantia), on
the north shore of the lake. Elsy
wrote a iiletter
to Sophie, which Sophie
used with other stories and sources to write her novel.
Sophie
was also an early feminist, and used her book to promote the idea of
education and equality for women.
Most
of the modern romanticized stories about the Des
Wattines on Frenchman’s Island seem to
have come from Sophie’s fictional book,
yet the people actually existed and are listed among the first few
settlers of the area. (The first name of the wife may well
be a product of Sophie’s imagination,
drawn from Rousseau. The accounts by
visitors just refer to her as Madame or Mrs. Wattine. The
husband’s first name of Carl may also be made up. I came across a
reference that it was really Louis, but can’t access any real
documentation of that. The last name, however, is accurate though
spellings vary). Since
I have not been able to prove their real first names, I will use the
ones Sophie gave them in her book.
So what is the true
story?
The True Story
As Far as Can be Discerned
Carl claimed to be a
signeur near Lisle, France. There is no obvious mention of him among
the French aristocracy. Carl and Emilie Des Wattine left France in
1786 after his father squandered much of the estate and Carl finished
it off. They are reported to have come to Philadelphia at first, and
then settled in New York City, a fairly standard path for French
immigrants at the time, where Carl lost a lot of his remaining money
on bad investments and partnered with a man who ran off with the
rest. Neither father nor son seems to have managed money well, or
been good judges of character. Carl seems to have soured on
Americans and wanted to “get away from it all”, though of course
his real motives were known only to himself. Central New York was
beginning to open up at the time, so perhaps he decided that was the
frontier where he could get away from people. Lake Oneida was on the
main path west – coming west from Albany out the Mohawk River,
portaging to Wood Creek at Fort Stanwix (Rome), down Wood Creek to
Lake Oneida, and then upriver to Oswego and Lake Ontario. They
settled in the Spring or summer of 1791 on what soon became known as
Frenchman’s Island, but probably was unnamed at the timeiii.
The first white
resident of the area had been Oliver Stevens, who settled at Fort
Brewerton in 1789. He was followed by Major Ryal Bingham, who also
settled near Fort Brewerton at about the same time in 1791 that the
Wattines settled on the island. A Mr. Bruce also settled on the
future site of Constantia in 1791 or 1792. These four families were
the only known white settlers in the whole area in 1791, outside of
those at Fort Ontario.
In the first year,
they got land cleared, some crops in, and began a cabin. There was
also a small kitchen separate from the main building with a bark
roof. They were unable to complete the cabin adequately before
winter, so left the Island and stayed with the Oneidas at Oneida
Castle. Carl helped with hunting to keep the village supplied and
seemed to get along well with the Oneidas. Their youngest daughter
Camille was born during this time.
Back in Albany and
New York City, however, the land speculators were busy and on July 26
of 1791 John and Nicholas Roosevelt (yes, of the family of the future
presidents!) had made an offer to pay 6d an acre for lands north of
Oneida Lake. This proposal was amended several times, finally
accepted by the State, and in December they applied to have it
surveyediv.
In June of 1792 the
Desvatines were visited by Francis Adrian Vanderkempe and Baron De
Zeng, who had undertaken a journey to examine the Roosevelt Purchase
with a view to settlement. Arriving just at sunset, they describe the
island as a pleasant place, with a very small cabin that was roofed
over and a partially roofed over kitchen to the left, at the center
of a circular clearing. The cabin contained a few trunks, a few
chairs, an oval table, a double-barrel gun, two neat beds, and a
collection of books. They were impressed with a stand of corn already
4 feet high in mid June, and also with the extensive garden behind
the cabin. They mention that the four Desvatines lived there alone,
without servants, neighbors, or even a cow. When Mr. Desvatines found
they were going to Fort Ontario by canoe, he offered his bateaux to
them, which they gratefully accepted. In July they returned from Fort
Ontario (ruined but still garrisoned by the British!) after several
adventures and brought back the bateaux. Mr. Desvatines gave them a
supply of garden vegetables and accompanied them as far as Fish
Creek, to obtain more corn from the Oneidas, leaving his wife and
children alone on the Islandv.
It is possible that
the Desvantines spent the winter of 1792/93 on their island. It would
have been very difficult. Though the island is described as having
plentiful avian wildlife, that would have moved on south for the
winter. From freeze-up until the lake was frozen deep enough to walk
on, they would have been trapped there – and again in the spring
break-up. There would have been no game on such a small island to
hunt and they would be forced to survive on what they had managed to
store. It seems likely that they again spent the winter with their
Oneida friends, but there is no way to be sure.
In the Spring of
1793 people began moving into the country in larger numbers. George
Scriba had bought out the Roosevelts and started a settlement at the
mouth of Bruce’s Creek, calling it “New Rotterdam”. The “New”
was dropped by 1795 and it was eventually renamed Constantia, which
it remains today. He built a sawmill and sold 100 acres on the north
shore on easy terms to Carl Desvantine, who it is noted, was required
to leave his islandvi.
There is a story the Roosevelts made him leave, but that is unlikely.
They were land speculators, never visited the area, and sold out to
Scriba as soon as possible. Scriba needed settlers and may have made
the condition part of his land sale to the Desvantines. It is
unlikely the Desvantines ever returned to the island to live, though
they may have maintained their garden there through 1793.
In the Autumn, the
new settlement was visited by Mr. Pharoux and Mr. Desjardins, who had
left France July 1 and arrived on October 13. With them were engineer
Marc Brunel and Baron De Zeng and 4 Indians. They represented the
tragically doomed Castorland Company, formed in France to purchase
200,000 acres from William Constable and start a settlement north of
the Black Rivervii.
1793 was an unusually dry year. They mention coming down Wood Creek
with their campsites illuminated by the burning forestsviii.
Everyone in New Rotterdam was sick, and dead fish were heaped along
the shoreline. New Rotterdam is mentioned as consisting of Scriba’s
mill with it’s inadequate dam, and three cabins. Mr. Desvartine is
mentioned as living nearby, but being away hunting at the time. On
the 31st they returned from the north country, having
sneaked Brunel past the British and survived various other
adventures. Mr. Vanderkempe came to see them at midnight and treated
them to a feast of bear meat at Mr. Scriba’s house. They visited
the Desvatines while there, and describe them as follows: “His
house was as open as a cage” (no roof). “We found his wife and
three young children as jovial as cupids. They made the most they
could of their poor barrack, where they would be obliged to spend the
winter, as from all appearance it could not be finished this season.”
“He had at that time a couple of cows, which had been obtained by
the sale of fine embroidered clothing, and his poultry yard contained
a few fowls,; these were his sole possessions, except his ‘chance’
on the land.” The travelers mentioned Mr. Scriba’s intention to
open a road to the mouth of Salmon Creek. They soon departed to the
east. M. Desvatine accompanied them for some distance in a
dilapidated canoeix.
In 1794 and early
1795 a number of interesting events took place. Mr. Scriba built a
4-rod road to the mouth of Salmon Creek, where he established the
town of Vera Cruz (one house – today’s New Haven/Mexico area) and repaired
his dam at Rotterdam, which had washed out as predicted. It is
obvious that Mr. Scriba intended to establish a bypass of the hated
British Customs House at Oswego. Road widths were measured in rods at
the time, one rod equaling 16 feet. One-rod roads were driveways and
field roads, two-rod rods were the customary town roads, three-rod
roads were the “Great Roads” between major population centers.
Four-rod roads were almost unheard of, superhighways of the time!
More money was sunk into building more houses at Rotterdam. It worked
for a time, but Scriba sunk so much money into it that he eventually
died nearly broke! There was a panic when the British began firing off their
cannon to celebrate King George’s birthday! You can read further of
these events in the “History of Oswego County”.
There is no further
mention of the Desvatines until June of 1795, when the Duke de la
Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, a French nobleman, passed through. He
mentions about a dozen poor log houses at Rotterdam, built at
Scriba’s expense. Besides these, there was only Mr. Vanderkempe’s
1000 acre farm and one other farm with a log house on it on the whole
north shore of Oneida Lake. “The Duke describes him”,
Desvantines, “as a man of thirty, gay and active, always laughing,
accustomed to labor, complaining of nothing, and on good terms with
all his neighbors. He exchanged work with them, and sold them the
products of his well-cultivated garden. He was delighted at seeing a
countryman, and, generous as ever, insisted on supplying the Duke
with vegetables without price. After having sold his jewelry and his
fine clothing, he had finally been obliged to dispose of his library
to Mr. Vanderkempe, though he still retained several standard French
works”. The three children before mentioned were all living. Madame
Desvatines is portrayed by the gallant Duke as then only twenty-four
years of age, though her oldest child was nearly ten. He says - “She
appears bright and intelligent; makes hay, bread, and soap and does
the kitchen work; yet her hands are quite delicate. She is lively,
good, and has eyes of particularly good and agreeable expression.”
La Rouchefoucauld
evidently considered Desvatines’ troubles as largely owing to his
unstable disposition and suggests that his Gallic devotion to other
women had aroused some jealousy on the part of his wife, who was
warmly attached to him. x
This is the last
definite mention of the Desvatines. There is a story that they were
taken to Livingston Manor by someone of importance who knew the
wife’s family, and from there went back to France. This is
considered fanciful by Crisfield Johnson.
On July 15, 1796
Fort Ontario was transferred to the Americans and Scriba’s empire
began to fall apart.
Dewitt Clinton,
passing through in 1810, laying out a general route for the coming
Erie Canal, describes Rotterdam as a “decayed settlement”, “11
miles from the inlet”, containing eight or ten houses. The
Desvatines were obviously gone, but Clinton got a somewhat garbled
account of them which indicates two things of interest – that the
Desvatines had resided there 7 years, which if correct would mean
they left in 1798, and that his (Desvatine’s) countrymen in Albany
had made a subscription to enable him and his family to return to
Francexi.
Clinton also states that Frenchman’s Island is State Land, which
means it was not part of the Roosevelt/Scriba Patent and there was no
reason for the Desvatines to be forced off of it!
The Erie Canal, when
finally built, was routed to the south of Oneida Lake and the old
route west was abandoned.
It seems likely,
then, that the Desvatines left Rotterdam in 1798 and returned to
France soon after. None of them are buried on Frenchman’s Island,
as popular legend suggests.
George Scriba died
in 1836. His papers are at the State Library in Albany.
Scriba's Patent - Lake Oneida, Rotterdam, Frenchman's Island |
Scriba Patent |
iLa
Roche, Sophie von, "Erscheinungen am See Oneida" (1798).
Prose Fiction. 82.
https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/sophiefiction/82
https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/sophiefiction/82
iiHilger,
Stephanie M. “Gender and Genre. German Women Write the French
Revolution”. Newark: University of Delaware Press, 2015. pp. 107 –
132. Available at:
https://books.google.com/books?id=nDEvBQAAQBAJ&pg=PA126&lpg=PA126&dq=Carl+Des+Wattine&source=bl&ots=UiinY5TRQ_&sig=ACfU3U16vm3uaOPOLc8eu5XwwelfACnqWQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj6naab68fmAhWHmeAKHavoDW0Q6AEwC3oECA0QAQ#v=onepage&q=Carl%20Des%20Wattine&f=false
iiiJohnson,
Crisfield. “History of Oswego County New York”. Philadelphia:
L.H. Everts and Co., 1877. P. 55. Available at:
https://www.getsfreebook.com/download/?id=byJEAQAAMAAJ
iv“Calendar
of New York Colonial Manuscripts, Indorsed Land Papers in the Office
of the Secretary of State of New York. 1643 – 1803”. Albany:
Weed, Parsons, and Co. Printers and Publishers. 1864. Pp. 869, 879.
Available at:
https://archive.org/details/calendarofnycolo00alba/page/n8
vJohnson,
Crisfield. “History of Oswego County New York”. Philadelphia:
L.H. Everts and Co., 1877. Pp. 46, 47. Available at:
https://www.getsfreebook.com/download/?id=byJEAQAAMAAJ
viIbid.
Pp. 47, 48. Available at:
https://www.getsfreebook.com/download/?id=byJEAQAAMAAJ
viiAppleton,
John. “Journal de Castorland”. Reprinted from the Proceedings of
the Massachusetts Historical Society. Boston: John Wilson and Son.
1864. This is a summary and doesn’t mention the Desvatines much.
viiiIbid.
pp. 7, 8.
ixJohnson,
Crisfield. “History of Oswego County New York”. Philadelphia:
L.H. Everts and Co., 1877. Pp. 48, 49. Available at:
https://www.getsfreebook.com/download/?id=byJEAQAAMAAJ
xIbid.
P. 51.
xiCampbell,
William W. The Life and Writings of DeWitt Clinton. DeWitt Clinton,
His Private Canal Journal – 1810. Part 1. July 14th.
Available at:
https://www.eriecanal.org/texts/Campbell/chap06-1.html#OneidaLake
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